I produced a calculator to help determine the volumes of sparge water required. The idea is that both batches should be roughly equal although a couple of litres here or there wont matter. If you determine that your preboil volume should be 30L and you collect 14L from batch one then you need to add 16L for batch 2 to make up a total of 30L. The second batch which should be sufficient to make up your required preboil volume. The firt straight after the mash, before you run off any wort then the next after you have drained the first batch from the mash tun. If you don't know how to batch sparge, all you have to do is add your sparge water in 2 batches. The reasoning behind continuous sparging is that is maximises efficiency/extraction. Pay for night at a spa for her and brew my ass of whilst she is gone.Ĭhris-x1 wrote:If you are getting poor efficiency when continuous sparging and aren't addressing it, you may as well try batch sparging anyway as it eliminates poor sparging technique and mash tun design. This way i would be dinished by around 11 am. Next day at 0730 when she goes out, collect boiler and Fv full of cold wort, and boil from there. Start 0730 ( ish) heating of mash water ( straight from the hot tap!)Ġ815 ( latest) start 60 minute mash, whilst mash is on heat sparge water in boiler, weigh out hops etc.Ġ915 recirculate 5 mins or so then soaege in 18-19 liters waterġ040 ( latest) wort in boiler ( that was already warm from heating sparge)ġ140 BOPIL and hotbreak ( spent grain gets chuked into the compost, mash tunrinses out and hides in its place)ġ400 all done washed cleaned and finished ( if not then i hide it all in the garage and do the clean up next day!) Leaves me just over an hour to get dinner on.ġ140 heat wort to 80 degrees and hold for 10 minutes ( spent grain gets chuked into the compost, mash tunrinses out and hides in its place)ġ250 chuck the whole lot in the FV and seal, take to garage and hide. NB wife leaves home at 0730 and is home around 1515 Its likely better that i just carry on as before. If not then i either have to hope to god that i get the day done, and the stuff cleared before she comes home ( meaning that i have to be effective and have no room for stuck sparge or anthing else to go wrong) or take it over 2 days, and move the fv to the garage after the wort is boiled for 10 minutes then finish the next day.( ihave done this before but bringing to the boil took a fair amount of time.) ( taking into account i like t have 24 liters in the bopiler prior to boil.) If i am doing a 20 liter brew length, it means i will not have enough run off despite this. The pans i use for heating water room 17 liters max at the moment. I have no chance of getting any other form for equipment at the moment. The problem is that seeing as i brew in the kitchen with very limited equipment i either have to use 2 pans on the stove to heat sparge water( ok if i am doing a smaller length) or use the bioiler, run off into the Fv then start the boil after transfering into the boiler again. It shortens the taime it takes for the wort to hit the hot break and essentially makes the brew day a little shorter. I know that in order to speed things up i should drain straight from the mash tun into the boiler and start heating whilst i am still sparging. a 60 minute mash, sparging of say 45 mins and a 60 minute boil means that i should be done by around 1 pm, she is home at around 3 pm. This means that i can start the heating of the mash water ( about 11 liters) once she leaves and in theory i should get this done by around 0815. She starts work at 0745 and leaves the house at 0730 latest. SO i managed to get an oatmeal stout made at the weekend but have a recipe in y head that i will have the chance to get done in the forthcoming half term. She doesn't mind once its all in the FV as long as she doesn't need to smell it. The saga continues at home with the pregnant wife and her sense of smell plus need for everything to be spotless.
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